Diablos Rojos (Red Devil) buses: Panama's rolling art

Panama city is home to the diablos rojos or "red devils" buses decorated with bright paintings of famous personalities and unique designs of psychedelic or religious nature, a variety of flashing exterior lights and some Spanish block lettering or decals. A few have neon lights flashing above their windshields or all around them, huge steer horns attached to the hoods and flying tassels affixed almost anywhere.

Hundreds of former US school buses barrel through Panama City's streets with loud reggae and salsa that blasts from speakers more powerful than the engines themselves. They cost just US$0.25 per ride and go to almost every corner of the city between 6am and midnight. No bells or buzzers to signal the driver to stop, so when you want to get off, just yell "parada."

Most are individually owned and there are no fixed routes or schedules : you just have to look for the destination painted on the windscreen. Plaza Santa Ana is the main hub where you can get buses to almost anywhere in the city. Good maps are available and free online at www.panama-maps.com.

A lot of Diablos Rojos have long vertical tail pipes that help to raise the decibel level on Panama's streets. While each Daiblo Rojo follows a certain consistent route, you have to learn how to navigate the city on a trial and error basis.

The most expensive decorated buses are airbrushed work of art. Unfortunately the best paint and customizing jobs are very expensive, and the high cost may soon put an end to this amusing tradition. Buses painted plain white or blue lack character.

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